Baltics24: Day 9 – Tallinn – Riga
Hello Latvia!
Having set an alarm to make sure that we’d be up in time for breakfast, check out, and a taxi to the bus station, we were awake well before. First there were the crowd of folks who decided to have a bit of a street party outside our window at 4am, I guess in fairness it was already light, but really? As much as no one really wants to be threatened with being dumped in a fountain at 4am, similarly no one wants to be woken up by the sound of this going on. All I can say is, thankfully, whatever nationality the group were, they weren’t English speaking (or Scottish speaking).
Then it was just dozing until it was time to get moving and seize the day. Breakfast, check out, and a quick taxi zoom to the airport (folks will be happy to know that Estonian taxi drivers are neither more nor less crazy than their counterparts elsewhere). Then it was the 4 hour bus to Riga.
The plan had been to take a bit more of a tour bus to Riga, one that would stop at places so we could get out and stretch our legs and experience the Estonian countryside. Sadly that one cancelled on us, so we ended up on the express. To be fair, the express bus is quite comfortable, reclining seats, plenty of room, a screen with entertainment (I watched 28 Weeks Later on the screen of the passenger in front, yeah it’s gratuitous), but there’s no stopping. The view is also, I’m guessing due to the route, a bit monotonous, as I’m sure there’s more to the Estonian/Latvian countryside than pine plantations and crops. But it’s an economical way to travel.
We crossed the border into Latvia and I only noticed because we slowed down a little. There appears to be some special lanes, though I don’t know what they were for, but otherwise thanks to the whole EuroSchengen thin we just kept on rolling. Latvian scenery was much the same, though they seemed to be also growing canola in the parts we drove through.
A little outside of Riga proper we encountered a number of what must be soviet-era apartment blocks. All were pretty uniform, same grey brown cladding, something we didn’t really see much of in Estonia (there are probably there, we just didn’t go to those places). I’m reserving judgement on Riga as it’s both a public holiday and overcast with occasional drizzle, and few if any cities look their best or most natural at these times. We did notice the looming presence the Academy of Sciences building has on the Riga skyline. The bus station at Riga is again likely a soviet-era throwback, drab, and with paid toilets.
Bolt seems to be the predominant rideshare/gig economy consortium in the Baltics, so we got one to our hotel. They are pretty cheap in Riga too. The driver couldn’t take us all the way as we’re staying in a narrow street in the old town, at a Sherlock Holmes themed hotel. Neat gimmick, certainly had us all in, I guess we missed the bit about there being no lift. We’ve generously been assigned to the Moriarty room, except that fucker never had to climb 5 flights of stairs. Should we be thankful there’s no waterfall to help us down? The room has touches inspired by Moriarty, there are a couple of waterfall illustrations in the bedroom, and numerous old Russian mathematics books on shelves. Should we be concerned about the shower?
Travel being all the glamour that it is, our first mission (after climbing the tower) was laundry. As we had plenty, we summoned a Bolt to take us, the nearest open laundromat was a bit of a hike (I mentioned it’s a public holiday weekend didn’t I?). Out driver this time was possibly a local crime boss freelancing for giggles, as she drove like she was the only person on the road, crossing 4 lanes of traffic without blinking, all the while sporting the most amazing set of nails. It’s not every day you take an Audi on a laundry run.
While we waited for our laundry, we took a stroll around the area, finding almost nothing open (hashtag public holiday) we took our hunger to the kebab shop next door, figuring we’d at least get something gf and not inedible. To our surprise, today’s contender for the dodgiest kebab shop was actually good. And we’re talking quite dodgy looking — uncleared tables, dirty windows, a haphazard looking menu, a counter covered in astroturf, this place embodied “we don’t give a shit about appearance” chic. Ordering a couple of doner snack packs, we feared the worst. And were pleasantly surprised. The chips were as good as any, perfectly crisp, not oily, the sauces were tasty (I went for the extra spicy, I’m going to guess that Latvia doesn’t do spicy as while tasty, last night’s tom yum soup gose had more chilli going on) and the kebab meat was just right. Possible the best price to quality meal of the trip so far.
Full of food and laundry we grabbed another Bolt as it was starting to rain a little. No point spending 6 euro and all the kilowatts on drying clothes if we’re just going to get them wet again. This driver took us the other way through the narrow streets only to also drop us a short block away from the hotel.
After recovering from the climb and and unpacking our clean clothes, we headed out for a bit of a wander, before deciding on Two More Beers bar. Its solid review mention a good range of beer and gf food. L again went for what is rapidly becoming her fave tipple, the Brothers zero alcohol toffee apple cider, while I went with the tasting paddle of five. We also grabbed some wings and fried pork ears as snacks. The first beer was the Latvian house lager, and it was okay, some subtle fruit notes to go with the malt. Next was a local IPA, and it delivered all anyone wants in an IPA, fruity juicy hops. I was a little let down by the witbier, it didn’t seem to deliver a strong wheat influence. Next was the pils, and it was good, not the greatest but solid. Probably the standout for me was the porter (a porter brewed in the Baltics, but not a Baltic porter) as it was full of dark fruit, clean flavours, and just the right amount of body. All the dark malt without the toasty/roasty flavours. The chicken was good, cooked right, juicy, and good flavour. The pigs ears were a little crunchy, but mostly quite soft, and flavoured with cayenne, salt and cardamom, and welt well with the beer. To finish I was feeling brave and went with a “bronze age braggot”: a braggot is a beer that also uses honey as a fermentable, and this one from Labietis, Gaismas Ragana (“witch of light”) has an ingredient list including lingonberry juice, cranberry juice, wheat malt, Linden flower, honey, bog myrtle, yeast, water, meadowsweet. It delivered some incredible dry notes thanks to the honey, some fruitness, a hint of sour rather than bitter, it was definitely different.
Tomorrow we’ll look to do proper Riga stuff, depending on what’s open. L was saying that the whole midsummer thing here involves foraging for the flowers for a headdress that is supposed to give healing vibes, ward off evil spirits, etc, and then not going to bed until sunrise. So basically there are pagan cosplayers out in the streets tonight, who I’m sure will be so looking forward to doing customer service jobs when they do peel themselves out of bed.
Prieka!