Viet Nam the fourth: Day 12 Hoi An – transit

A fairly quiet day really, as the plan was that I’d get picked up around 4pm at the hotel for my flight to HCMC then home. I’m writing this at Da Nang airport, after my flight was due to depart, as VietJet have been sending me updates all day telling me my flight is delayed. In theory I’ve got about an hour until I board, in practice who knows.

It turn out that while VietJet are cheap, they aren’t actually that good. Despite booking a two stop ticket, I’ve been told that they can’t check my bag through to destination, so at HCMC I get to pick up my case, lug it to the airport hotel, then check it back in for the flight home. When I told my driver that I was flying VJ and they had delayed my flight 4 times, he wasn’t the least surprised: VietJet don’t have a good reputation among the locals.

So basically, unless I absolutely have to, I’m never flying this airline again.

I’m kinda also a little unhappy with our hotel, who have been great, but then called my driver’s boss because the driver was 3 minutes late to the hotel — even though the hotel knew that I was also running late and beat the driver by maybe 10 seconds. My driver was very apologetic after his boss called him to give him an ear full, so I did my best to reassure him that I had no problems. We had a good chat on the 50 minute drive, about VN, food, history, and how the younger generation seem to love all things USian.

We did a post breakfast wander for souvenirs, L managed to score an almost normal price for some bowls by walking away, while the storekeeper followed, gradually dropping the price. We ended up at a ceramic shop that had all manner of things, including a chunk of pottery likely salvaged from a 15th century shipwreck. All my google skills seem to indicate that this is legit, sometime late 15th century a boat with lots of pottery sank off the coast of Hoi An. Fishermen started finding bits in the 1990s, leading to a salvage operation that left the organisers with tens of thousands of pieces, of which the best were either sold or went to museums in VN. The leftovers went cheaply to just about anyone, including a few large boxes’ worth to this shop. We got a couple of pieces for an okay price.

The ceramic shop is across the road from Hoi An’s other famous banh mi shop, Banh Mi Queen, so I had to get one. For quality control, obviously. While the price has gone up, the mixed meat is now 30k VND not 20k VND, the quality is still great. I think I lean more to their banh mi, it’s got more pate and meat, a little less salad, and egg. And has to be the best sandwich for under $2 anywhere in the world.

We popped into Be Be so L could try on a couple of shirts, so I got to say goodbye again. Then we headed to Yaly so I could check my finished suit, it’s a good one, and pay the rest of the bill (a process too complicated to go into here, as we confused them by having two separate invoices). Then we said goodbye, took some photos, and headed back to the hotel so I could finish packing. My case has been quite light, mostly empty, as I expected to get a bunch of clothes, so it’s now full of them and a few items L won’t need for her last few days here.

We had time for a quick foot massage and shave — L got a pedicure and foot shave, I got a foot massage and face shave, and I hope they used a different razor. Followed this pampering with cocktails at the Market Bar, I had a rooibos infused gin creation with egg white froth and other things that was quite delicious. Then another stop for souvenirs, where I managed to get a normal price, which was great fun as the vendor was in on the game (dropping the price from 400k to 399k with a very cheeky smile at one stage). We then had time for a quick dinner at a VN/Korean bbq place across from the hotel, more eggplant, some stir fried duck, and bbq satay squid, and all were delicious. Then it was time for goodbyes, drivers, and I’m back in that state I call transit. When I get to HCMC I’ve got a few hours in an airport hotel, before I have to be back at the airport at 430am to check in again.

VN is wonderful, still wonderful. It’s been great being back among such wonderful people, amazing food, beautiful sights, and good shopping. I admire such a people that have been through so much, that can be satisfied with so little, and who can be kind and generous. Their finest eating may have tiny seats, but they have huge hearts. Tam biet, cam on.